Full crimp vs half crimp vs open hand reddit. PDF version available.

Full crimp vs half crimp vs open hand reddit. It was a rough mountain road, full of stones and huge holes. Learn when and how to use each technique to enhance your performance and conquer challenging routes. I'm always training half-crimp and climb mostly half-crimp with some full-crimp too. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 From what I understand, there is a difference, technically, between full crimps and closed crimps. You probably don't need to train open-hand grips. Closed Crimp: +44 lbs (31% BW). If all you do is train open hand, your are limiting your exposure to the different shapes you will need to use when working a project. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. 4 hours ago · The full moon of August 2025 is nearly here. I am pretty sure this is from over full-crimping. Given how variable holds, wall angles, and body postions on climbs can be, choosing the correct way to grip Curious lack of other symptoms: Half crimp or full crimp position has no pain while pulling on my left hand. Aim to position your fingers on the hold so that the weight is distributed through the pads of your fingers and not the tips. No inflammation. The straight pointer finger one is a open hand crimp, half crimp is when all your fingers are at 90 degrees at the second knuckle. Yea, my open hand is four fingers but I see half crimp as almost basicly a full crimp without the thumb. One downside is that a lot of energy is wasted cranking to a full crimp every time I hit a small hold. Assuming that’s a typo and you’re not actually cranking 40 lb on a 5 mm edge that is a large discrepancy between your open hand and half crimp grips. It's possible in theory to half crimp any hold you can full crimp on, your DIP will still be hyperextended but you could maintain a 90 degree angle at the PIP, but this usually feels less secure for most people than using a full crimp. The full stop is an important punctuation mark that shows the end of a sentence. They proceed to practice the full hand crimp, and then get an injury. From what I've read, the full crimp is not going to provide more pulling power than a closed crimp, but Every crimping position has its application. Mar 27, 2019 · The answer is that many people (myself included) got injured once too often from full-crimping and re-trained themselves to rely more on the half-crimp. I feel most comfortable with the four finger open hands, and will try to focus on that grip for now. Things is, full crimp is mechanically stronger with the same force applied to the muscle/tendon assembly. In the mean time, I won't be climbing. Depelop my open handed/half crimp strength. Mar 16, 2005 · The main lesson was that Haydn is weaker than he should be at half crimping and dragging hence: haydn jones said: 4. Lots of people on r/climbing and r/bouldering think you should never train the full crimp position (i. Similar to how it is recommended to train half crimp instead of open crimp (to train the finger musculature with an active grip), I want to know if it would be beneficial to train full crimp without the mechanical and physical advantage of the thumb in spite of the (somewhat) lack of grip specificity. Most people train half or open crimp on edges because research shows that isometric strength training translates to other lengths of contraction within 30? degrees of the trained joint angle. This means training a half crimp also trains full and open because they are within that 30 degrees. ) If you can commit to never using a full crimp ever than sure, but if you only use open hand while training, then hop on the dream proj that requires a full crimp that you’ve never trained then you’re asking for trouble. I do try to train open hand, but on projects crimping is a necessity. Coming the day after the Lion's Gate Portal, this lunation is bringing innovation and change, since it’s in the forward-thinking air sign of Aquarius. S. ) 3 finger drag is the only way most people can actually “open hand” (all PIP joints >90°), it just has to do with the length of your fourth finger. Taking a hold with 4 fingers but “opening” the first finger so the PIP is >90° is what I call “open crimp”. They are referring to the closed hand crimp, but their friend may not know that. Like you said about the open hand, its easy if the hold is above you and your wrist is pulling down comfortably. Il rinforzo dei tessuti di lana li rende più spessi. Elevate your climbing game with this knowledge. Crimp holds are divided into three different types: full crimp, half crimp, and open hand. No pain while resting. From my own experience, half crimp and full crimp strength does not fully translate; what made the full crimp feel very comfortable for me was getting comfy hanging on 8mm with full crimp and climbing on techy granite stuff with tiny holds where you have to full crimp. You might be in a "weaker" grip type when using 4 fingers, switching to a relatively stronger grip type when using 3. Was able to do max hangs at 130% BW half crimp, yet barely able to pull on at BW open hand. With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. Fulling the woollen fabric makes it thicker. Never would I grab a hold open hand unless maybe on a side pull. Find 266 synonyms for Full Of to improve your writing and expand your vocabulary. 12c/V7-. so it's very easy to go this route but it ends up not training the muscle properly VS the level you climb at. I can do 25 pullups with no pain too. Short version (my opinion): - When in doubt, measure a strict half crimp at the index finger by keeping a straight line through PIP, DIP, and fingernail/edge. Not being strong on half crimp or full crimp meant that any crimpy overhanging climbs were out of my league (ie most harder grade stuff!). The correlations with route grades were similar. My strongest grip is half crimp (bw + 40% at 20mm edge for 7 secs), and I'm currently trying to improve my 3 finger drag. He's got a whole drawer full of odd socks. We've brought a cooler full of beer with us. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. It helps in clear communication by separating ideas. Basically, drop weight/increase edge size for crimp. The index is the main differentiating finger between 4 fingers pseudo-open, and a strict half crimp, May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I recently did my test day and noticed my fingers were holding in open crimp vs the suggested half crimp I've read online. Half Crimp: Body Weight. I don’t think you’d benefit much from doing minimum edge training vs just Are you guys always talking about half crimp or open/chisel grip as well? Huge difference for me. This guide explains how to identify, use, and avoid mistakes with full stops. Not full-crimping but definitely more crimped than on a 20mm, where I notice sometimes I'm kinda between a half crimp and "chisel crimp". 20 hours ago · For stargazers seeking a glimpse of the full moon this August, make sure to look up this weekend. Putting this in to practical terms, it would mean hangboarding with an open grip using only the middle three fingers as opposed to putting my hand into a possibly compromising position for the sake of using my pinky, Does anyone else have any input on this? TL;DR: Long vs. Unusual Half Crimp I use a weird grip when trying to half crimp. PIP is almost always flexed to some degree. The bottom line is that if your half crimp max hangs are more than 20lbs different than your open hand max hangs, you probably have an open hand weakness that you need to address. Do you think I could climb slightly harder if I sucked it up and full crimped? Apr 5, 2018 · If you can't deadhang in a half crimp without having your hand open up then take weight off with a pulley so you can stay in the position and train it. I have the complete opposite experience as you. So you'll probably hear a lot of that when you ask around here. As a result, it’s easy to injure yourself with the half crimp if you overuse it. Just as an aside, I hardly ever use a full closed crimp and I am significantly weaker with it compared to open hand/half crimp. And also, assuming that your fingers are healthy and feeling good, you should specifically be training a half to full crimp (safely, progressively loading) on the hangboard. Manca qualcosa di importante? Her book is full of long convoluted sentences. Most likely you have a very large difference in crimping strength between close crimp, half-crimp and open hand crimp. Hangboarding, also known as ‘fingerboarding,’ is the best way to train your crimp strength once you’ve developed your pulleys and tendons more. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. This position gives my pinkie more access to the hold and puts less force on my index and middle finger. I've almost completely switched to full open hand crimping (120+ degrees) and haven't been injured since. The museum is full of rare and precious treasures. Instead of carrying on ignoring it and blaming it on hand morphology or whatever excuse started today at 80% BW open hand, and Background: I used to subconsciously full crimp all the time, which was not great for my fingers; it caused them to be inflamed and very stiff (synovitis). After Which to focus on/and train: 3 finger open hand grip vs 4 finger "semi" open hand grip I have been dealing with a weak ring finger for a couple of years now. I'm strongest at crimps, half pad crimps aren't an issue for me, and I never do a full crimp with my thumb over my fingers unless the crimp is less than half a pad and I gotta really crank on it. Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Here are my numbers: Open hand: +53lbs (38% BW). Meanwhile, bolt-on holds have evolved and are now far more user-friendly and generally suited to the half-crimp than the hideous sharp edges that we used to bone down on. First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. Sep 27, 2024 · This fail-safe is when your half-crimp is compromised, and you fall into an open-hand grip. Watch the playlist SAIYAARA FULL MOVIE ALL PARTS by EDITORIUM on Dailymotion Her book is full of long convoluted sentences. Closed Crimp vs. May 30, 2007 · The only injuries I have heard of or encountered from half-crimping have been relatively minor - the sort which can usually be 'climbed through'. It provides simple rules and examples to help beginners use them correctly. Anyone else have this experience? Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. I crimp most of the time and haven’t been injured yet. You need to specify a grip type to really figure out what is going on: grip strength between different grips (open crimp, half crimp, full crimp, 3 finger drag etc) can vary drastically. Pro help: I'm going to see an ortho next week and get imaging. On this week episode, Our lord, the turbo crimper is campusing 6mm on 50° board. short pinky, open hand vs. The half crimp, open hand, and close crimp are only three of the various hand shapes we use, and because of that, I argue they should all be trained equally. Using a thumb wrap should also provide more strength and in general give a more secure feeling. I'm currently climbing V6-7 outside and hard crimp problems are actually my specialty. For ages I've had a massive disparity between open hand and half crimp. It makes sense that it may be easier on the joint, but less force is generated due to the less favorable position on the middle finger. It's a fact that every strong climber uses the half-crimp grip regularly in training (although many do not use the full crimp). Pulley injuries frequently happen due to rapid & intense stress I rarely dyno directly to an open crimp and foot slippage when in the more stable hand grip should logically happen less frequently So from all these points, it would make much more sense to consider the half crimp or open crimp to be the more risky grips, or am I missing something ? I thought it goes from open handed or drag (fingers almost straight) to half crimp (fingers at a 90° angle or something), to crimp (what you show) to full crimp (thumb on top of the index finger). I think in a 3fd your fingers, hand and wrist are pretty much alined in a straight line, not taxing the wrist. 4secs on 4 secs off. I'm thinking this might be beneficial, my index definitely is a weak link in half crimps. Also, 20 seconds is too long to hang unless you're doing hangs to rehab an injury. (Like a full crimp without the thumb. To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). It's better to train half crimp on an edge/weight thats a little too easy so that you're at least sure to always keep proper hand form, than train it on an edge/weight that's too hard so that you always drop into an open hand. All on the lattice rung 22mm edge. After a few months of rehab and using different grips, my fingers now feel healthier and stronger than ever. It's typically with crimpy jug slot type holds, on overhang where you are pulling I base my level training half crimp on the index finger position. No swelling. Just recently started training closed crimps. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. Do some open hand hangs, every day. I have trouble hanging body weight with closed crimp on 10mm, but can do 8mm + 20% BW on an 8mm with a half crimp. A simple hypothesis might be that people train half-crimp more than open-handed and so it gives a more consistent indication of performance, but as you say the full data would be very useful and as presented its a confusing and somewhat incomplete write-up. But note that I worry more about my fingers than my wrist. Do others have similar differences between grip types? Do I just really need to focus on the half crimp grip? If I remember correctly, a full crimp puts up to 36x the strain on your tendons vs open hand and it's dry firing off that creates the most stress. If you'd keep your wrist straight while crimping, it experiences a small bending moment which you need to resist. The downside to favoring the half crimp (and the full crimp) over an open-hand grip is that the crimp position puts more pressure on your pulleys and tendons. Half Crimp vs. Feb 9, 2020 · Description: In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. In an index half crimp, my middle is quite a bit sharper in angle at the PIP. Jan 5, 2025 · Half crimp: more muscle contraction, more tiring, but can vary angle of hand to hold without changing angle of tips on the hold by bending fingers. Would be nice to match my current full crimp strength aka 5 sec hand on toms latice or 11 sec on BM currently at 10kilos asistance for half and 20 for open. That being said, one of the most prolific climbing coaches and training experts (and of course a very hard climber Aug 25, 2019 · I stayed away from anything full crimp for a while and mainly worked open hand and non-aggravating half crimp climbs. However, when I climb a crispy problem, my fingers start to hurt, specifically the last knuckles before the fingertip. PDF version available. Through all these periods, I have maintained full strength in the open hand positions, and have just continued to climb in these positions while rehabbing my injury. I mostly use open drag to latch hold that are far away and pull it into half or full crimp depending on the hold. Comparison of half crimp type, large (towards open hand) or small (towards full crimp) Three hold types are typically discussed in the literature: the open hand (slope), the half crimp (fingers at 90 degrees at the second joint), or full crimp (with thumb lock off). This page includes the full text of the U. Simple way to test this is to get on the hangboard and see if you can half crimp (index finger 90 deg) a medium/smallish edge at nearly the same weight/ease as with a closed crimp. I noticed while doing weighted hangs on beastmaker 20mm that I naturally rotate my wrists outward so that my fingers aren't perpendicular to the hold but at a slight angle. I am using the beastmaker 1000 bottom crimp appx 15-16mm according to a different thread on reddit. Anyone who has switched from 20mm to 10mm or even less, around what %bw on 20mm do you think is good to switch at? Yeah, full crimp=hyper extension at DIP, half crimp=extension at DIP (straight), open crimp=flexion at DIP. These injuries have always only affected my full crimp (which i hardly ever do because I am scared of it) and half crimp positions. Same with full crimp, deadhang some full crimps for max hangs, if you can't do it with bodyweight, take some weight off. While the full Moon has a specific time when it's 100% illuminated, the Moon will appear full the night before and the night after! So, if the weather is poor one day, you have a chance to look again and another night to stroll beneath the light of the Moon. I kept doing light finger rolls (40-50 rep range) and if I did hangboard it was only open hand. For (full) crimp, the wrist is in an angle if you hang straight under your fingertips. half crimp with and without the pinky involved? Sep 11, 2023 · Open Hand vs. Constitution, including the Bill of Rights and all 27 amendments. A closed crimp is when you curl your thumb up to your fingers, and a full crimp is when you bring your thumb further up and across your fingers, laying it on your pointer finger, locking in. How would you call that grip : half crimp full crimp without thumb high angle Take care of your PIP and DIP. Have climbed 5. The half crimp and full crimp allow for a different variety of force application, and should be trained with that in mind. Same with the type of hangboard you're using, wooden vs plastic. On BM2000 14mm I can only pull 5% BW half crimp, but 45% BW chisel, 30% BW 3-finger drag. Oct 29, 2020 · Does wrapping your thumb over your index finger make you cringe? You may be missing out on some serious pulling Aug 27, 2023 · Discover the difference between an open-hand grip and a crimp in climbing. May 1, 2024 · When starting, avoid full-crimping until you have built enough strength that half-crimping feels good. The full stop is an important punctuation mark that shows the end of a sentence. I am now only hangboarding half crimp and highly recommend, up to +38kg on 20mm and (My open hand strength is lagging and I suck at pockets because of it though. The crossover will decrease as the grips become more dissimilar; for instance, we'd expect almost no transfer (beyond hypertrophy in muscles and soft tissue!) between the full-crimp and the two-finger pocket grip. Not full weight, (keep you feet on the ground and just lean slowly into it). . Full Crimp Jede dieser Griffvarianten fühlt sich anders an und im Eifer des Gefechtes benutzen Boulderer:innen die Begriffe oftmals etwas salopp. You can train each grip type: open-hand crimp, half-crimp, and full-crimp. e. I was in a similar position to you, always used to climb open hand only - i could hang 80% of body weight open hand 20mm edge, but couldn't even half crimp my body weight. , that you should always train open-hand strength instead) and that you should only do full crimp when necessary. Your open hand seems pretty strong and if I were to guess you aren’t spending much time hangbording in a half crimp, or there is something wrong with your form. I have injured my PIP joint as well as tendons doing your "active" half crimp with the 90 degree bend at the PIP joint. Nov 9, 2022 · Front 3 drag (open) 4 finger half crimp (closed) What actually happens when we train our grip? Neurological adaptations: Typically, these are quick changes that happen specific to a new protocol and include increasing the magnitude, rate of firing and synchronisation of motor units. Important Tip: Crimp holds primarily engage the fingertips, so proper finger placement is crucial. The hand position rotates a bit when you full-crimp compared to a half-crimp and you get more stability from closing the thumb so it seems that combination improves the amount of force you can generate. I always knew my open hand was the strongest and my half crimp was shit, but I didn't realize how much the half crimped lagged. This will change how difficult it is to hold with a drag. So I am trying to slowly train my open hand grip in climbing and on the hangboard. Damit wir im Folgenden aber Klarheit gegenüber den Techniken schaffen, findest du hier die offizielle Definition. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. The argument isn't that open-crimp doesn't benefit full-crimp, but that it benefits it less than training the half-crimp. zgxw nzwu xxjx hlnoci aplk iwlg ldwfdgwr dpuncbx angpdd mssjiy